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Style divas

Thursday, August 30, 2018

Fashion circles were all abuzz last week, as designers across the spectrum showcased their creations. Here’s a glimpse.

Supernova

Mishru's Winter-Festive'18 Supernova collection showcased palettes described as “going from the dark brilliance of the moonless nightsky to the midnight blue of a moonlit one, from the greys that lie in-between to the breaking in of the morning light…” Power dressing met femininity, with strong capes and blazers, and Indianness at the core of the brand. Aari, zardosi, hand embroidery, knife pleating, draping and glass bead scatter techniques are used, and miniature glass beads, pearls, sequins and metal strings bring them all to life. Fabrics include a variety of silks, light and heavy georgette, tulle, crepe, twill satin, micro velvet and organza.

Mishru is an Indian wear label founded by designer, Swapna Anomolu.

Agami

‘Pushtaini’, inspired by the age old art of Madhubani, aims to merge Indian Art and Fashion into a cohesive approach towards innovation in surface ornamentation in Agami’s Winter-Festive 2018 collection. Agami aims to reinvent zardozi embroidery in contemporary patterns. The nuanced art of Madhubani takes centre stage, often characterised by complex geometrical patterns and vivid colour palettes. Agami is the brainchild of designer Neha Agarwal. As an established name on the Lakme Fashion Week and the social circuit, she has had celebrities such as Anushka Sharma, Vaani Kapoor and more recently, Janhvi Kapoor and Kiara Advani sport her creations.

Nexa

Designer Amit Aggarwal in association with NEXA launched his menswear line. Vintage Phulkari restored using signature polymer details was combined with traditional Indian metallic embroidery techniques and contemporary intricate hand embellishment. Complementing the ensembles, the jewellery represented clean angular lines, geometric patterns and shapes. Closing the show were Bollywood’s Shahid Kapoor and Disha Patani. Shahid sported a sophisticated look, featuring handwoven metallic tape with intricate hand embellishments, a new-age textile that was moulded to his body, thereby creating a modern silhouette for men. Disha Patani wore a black metallic corded gown in organic patterns with intricate hand embellishments.

The beauty looks were created in sync with the futuristic ensembles. For female models, the makeup was rock inspired but modern. The hair was half structured and sculpted in the front. While the back was tied into a chic undone knot. For male models, the hair was sleek and gelled back making for a clean and structured look.

Gulabi Chowk

Jaipur Designer Punit Balana showcased his festive collection Gulabi Chowk with Bollywood beauty Radhika Apte in a steel grey halter gown as she walked the ramp as the showstopper with actor Jim Sarbh, who was in a steel grey trouser and shirt teamed with a long structured jacket from Punit’s new men’s line. Actors Sonal Chauhan, Amruta Khanvilkar, Sai Tamanhkar, Malvika Mohan, Kritika Kamra, Rasika Duggal, Ihana Dhillon, Saundarya Sharma, Anupriya Goenka, Sahil Salathia, Ishwak Singh, RJ Malishka and Miss Malini attended Punit’s show as his front row guests. In Gulabi Chowk, the intricate detailing of the patterns of the royal architecture of Jalebi Chowk and Sheesh Mahal have been captured. Dori work and glass embroidery further enhances the collection.

Ruceru

Ruceru, a Kolkata-based fusion wear brand presented Chitrangada, with a wide collection of contemporary and bridal ensembles. The collection was inspired by Rabindranath Tagore’s timeless Bengali dance drama. Showstopper Bipasha Basu’s outfit balanced femininity and a woman’s warrior self, with a strong crimson veil and a wrap-up tied blouse teamed up with oyster pink silk floss tassel lehenga.  Designer-Sister Duo of Label Ruceru - Ruchi Roongta and Rashi Agarwal lay emphasis on women’s empowerment and the sense of an unapologetic self, they say, hence the choice of Chitrangada for inspiration.

Caprese

Twirl with the wind in Arpita Mehta's Autumn/Winter'18 collection where the vibe is breezy, and the silhouettes breezier with the effervescent spirit of Caprese, a fusion destination wear collection. Prints have always been an integral part of Arpita's brand ethos, and the allure of floral hydrangeas shares top billing in her new line-up, along with geometrical accents and deck chair stripes. The jetsetting woman can opt for effortless off-duty chic with kaftan capes, tiered ruffle pants, boho maxis and bitsy bralettes. Those looking to dial things up can try the lapel panelled cape and ruffled tulip skirts.  With a colour palette progressing from dainty pastels to siren reds, frozen blues and mauves, the designer has also trained a laser focus on the embroidery that utilises poth in a distinctive way along with mirror, cutdana and threadwork.

Raas

Saaksha and Kinni showcased their Winter Festive collection on Day 4 of Lakme Fashion Week. The collection, titled Raas, was heavily inspired by Gujarat. In particular the signature prints like bandhani, patola and leheriya prints were reinterpreted and used in modern global silhouettes. The designers were also inspired by the Kotwalia tribe of South Gujarat whose livelihood lies within cane basket weaving. They had interwoven cane material with their signature thread work and metal strips to create an interesting surface texture. The fabrics used were mostly cotton silks, drill and flat chiffon. The chiffon and cotton silks were a reflective of the feminine side of the collection and the stiffer drill fabrics was a reflection of the sharper masculine side. Ending the show was the gorgeous Shruti Hassan in a soft and layered number in a nude palette.

Gunjan Jain

Gunjan Jain explores, revives and reinterprets the heritage weaves of Odisha in a journey of ten years where she lost herself inside the villages and towns of Odisha, only to resurrect the dying weaves to greater glory. The aesthetics are classical but the execution is contemporary. She set up her design studio Vriksh in Bhubaneshwar in 2008. “Those early years in Odisha with one of the world’s oldest and greatest traditions of ikat and  Jala weaving changed my life. I picked up the local language because I wanted to closely work with the traditional weavers and interact with them. I ensured that a bond was created. A bond of trust between me and my weavers. And that is the real reason of Vriksh’s success” she recalls. Jain is an alumnus of Pearl Academy of Fashion.

Begin

Antar Agni by Ujjawal Dubey showcased their collection, ‘Begin’, featuring a stylised idea of festive classics, giving it a new-age touch. Structured silhouettes with a mix of subtle prints and deconstructed metallic embroidery made a statement, and the colour palette featuring dark shades of black, navy and military green added intensity.  Metallic details with hints of warm mustard lent an energetic and eclectic vibe. Sumeet Vyas, Rasika Duggal, Ranvir Shorey, Sikander Kher, Ranveer Brar and Gulshan Devaiah came out to support the designer.

All Primero

aLL - The Plus Size Store  launched the ‘aLL PRIMERO’ collection created by designer Narendra Kumar at the Plus Size Fashion Show at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2018. Shikha Talsania walked the ramp. The collection, titled ‘Never Hyde’, is for men and women of all sizes. The 29 fresh faces selected at the auditions walked the ramp to showcase the collection, which includes everything from bomber jackets, denim jackets, jeans, joggers, to tops, shirts, pants, dresses, jumpsuits, and blazers. All are aimed to break stereotypes regarding the plus size fashion, by adding a lot of colour, eccentric prints and silhouettes to the collection.

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